Thursday, April 3, 2008

Barrels and more Barrels

The dive has not been good ....but the barrels have!!

There has been a strong ground swell out the south and it has made for some seriously chunky barrels. A little under the weather with flu I got the call this morning that it was on. Hauled my ass out of bed and got out there.

And it was chuncky!! I managed to get into one or two waves that just turned to caverns of delight. But for every wave I got 2 went by, I was just not able to get into them on my 6'o" ...... keep telling myself that 'Kelly' is a year older and a centimeter taller and would probably be riding his favorite 5'10"!! Ok he is 6kg lighter ....... and has just won the second of 2 ASP events back to back!!

Anyway it looks like we are in for an epic winter surfwise ...... I am getting ready for it!!

The forecast looks bleak for the next few days and week end ....... the kiteboarding will be good ...

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