Flip the cutoff low south of Madagascar is still pumping the swell. This morning was a solid 6ft on the big sets and it was still breaking on the high tide.
The swell strength is incredible on this swell that we are experiencing, it is interesting to notice the difference between wind swell and a 'deep ocean' swell.
This morning I went surfing and got my ass kicked a good couple times. The water was moving very fast today. I have been surfing the swell the last few days, but today the swell was quicker than usual.
It was probably a combo between there being less resistance to the swell on the high tide. And the strong swell.
Anyway I had a couple over head waves that crushed me, One I did not even get to the bottom! I free fell and did not stick the landing. On another wave I got near the bottom and little 6'0" spun out and I got axed by the lip.
Freak, I got my ass kicked! I would like to blame it on my little board being under gunned. But I have ridden way bigger waves on smaller boards ..... I think it has something to with my fat ass!!!
I have just checked the forecast and guess what .... the swell ain't dropping!! It looks like we will have more swell this week only dieing off on the weekend.
The down side to all this swell is that the banks that were just coming right are going to be totally flattened!!
Catch ya Later
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